The strangely negative "windowed" term in jewellery...

4 minute read

Look, why don't you just go ahead and call us, 'The Gemstone Arbitragers'... I'll explain, don't worry.I don't want every piece that I write to be binning the industry that took me in...

But, there just always seems to be these bizarre tropes arising, that not only don't make logical sense to me as a designer, but subsequently, (and I guess more importantly) become these amazing opportunities for our customers.


This is our 'gemstone arbitrage'. 

Firstly - I could be telling you how to suck eggs here, so if you're already well aware of the term, then go sit by the window for a second, whilst I go over what we mean by 'arbitrage'.

Arbitrage, in its simplest form, is 'taking advantage of a price difference' - usually found from variation between two markets. The best example I always use is Duty Free shopping, in which you are able to take advantage of not paying tax in the country you purchased it, resulting in usually a 10-20% discount.

The key component for arbitrage in our case, is finding a price advantage for equal or relative equal value when designing your piece. This generally comes from industry standards that have deemed certain aspects of gemstones and diamonds 'undesirable' for many (we believe) illogical reasons. Therefore, this is the arbitrage that we find for our customers.

Some previous examples;

- Less recognised gemstones. Sometimes with a dull or pale appearance, such as a Turkish Diaspore, that we feel has an amazing unique pastel hue that lacks market appreciation.
- Gemstones that are seen as flawed due to needles, gaseous or metallic inclusions, which do effect clarity but promote individuality and a very unique look.
- Warm white diamonds, sitting around the U-V or W-X range, that are exclusively seen as less valuable due to man-made colour charting. There is no loss of intrinsic value in the slightest. These warmer white tones are not only price advantageous, but are some of the nicest diamonds available. 

Our latest gemstone arbitrage is low pavilion cuts; rose and portrait - gemstones & diamonds that are referred to as being 'windowed', due to being able to see through the stone facets more clearly, like, a window.















For starters, the negative characterisation of windowed gemstones is valid in a sense, and I do completely understand the function of a well ratio'd gemstone cut. I appreciate that a deep pavilion and well positioned culet will get the most out of the gemstone colours and how the light will vibrate through the stone and return the best colours to the viewer.

A pavilion too deep will result in a colour too dark, and you can imagine that a short pavilion will allow light to pass through too easy.

My argument is, there once again is a great opportunity for people to sacrifice slightly in one area to obtain far more for their dollar with another approach. In particular, portrait cuts.


The main reason for getting more bang for your buck in this instance is, you are not paying for junk in the trunk.  

Meaning, you are not paying for the majority of the carat weight that sits in the pavilion. It is a very wide, 'spready' stone that when designed correctly, can occupy a large area of the finger and look really, really good. 




This again has led us to a focused collection on this particular style. 

We're naming it, the Lunette Collection. Redefining the exclusive framing of 'windowed' cuts. 


You don't need to be on a budget for this style. 

You don't need to making sacrifices or 'settling' for a portrait cut. 

It's an amazing look, I'm surprised at how much I feel in love with this collection. 

We've bezelled most of the collection, with half and shared bezels, as so there is no setting beneath the gemstone. Why? So we can absolutely make the most of those stained windows and see right through the piece. Love it. 

As the comfortable, but lingering constraints of traditional engagement ring jewellery fades, there is an ongoing pursuit for unique centre stone choices and design styles - well, for us at least... 

You already appreciate coloured gemstones as the focal point and you likely share this will a fair few. So let us take you one step further, into the coloured stones in a portrait cut. The Lunette Collection. 



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